Kenzo Fall/Winter 2015 womenswear collection
As the moving blocks began its assault course around the runway, Issa Lish opened the show as a lone caped and hooded figure with a splay of white lighting up her eyes. That first look set the tone for a collection that cocooned and blanketed us with warmth-inducing layers in forest greens, burgundies and yellows. We were enveloped in the cosiest of capes, blanket coats and shearlings bundled up with raw-edged knits. They often came with embellished hoods or wool caps with attached scarves that resembled a form of armor.
For Fall-Winter collection for KENZO, they celebrate a collective.They explore togetherness through camaraderie, ceremony and protection. Their abode is the wild, their refuge forged through their friendship with the surrounding trees and forest. Looks are defined by their warmth, draping and volumes. Capes and blankets in graphic jacquards and shearlings wrap nocturnal floral printed dresses and trousers. Tops and skirts with cartridge pleats envelope the body and provide an extra protection when layered with knits with feathered edges.
Black, forest greens and sun yellows meld with prints of graphic dissectred rays or labyrinths. Delicate fabrics of georgette, fil coupe or chiffoned silk juxtaposed with melton wools offer polished notions of armor. Glimpses of boucle embroideries and prints in distorted camouflages elegantly sheath. Accentuating the silhouettes are multi colored cross body leather backpacks, suede bike bucket bags, travel bags in cornflower blue and python platform chelsea boots or heels with webbing.
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